Crown of the North American Continent

I first read about Waterton from the official UNESCO website, when I browsed through the list of World Heritage Sites in Canada.



Banff, Jasper and the Rocky Mountain Parks occupy their rightful position prominently on the list. The sites of Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump and Dinosaur Provincial Park are much lesser known, but Canadians should approve of their importance to the cultural and natural heritage of Western Canada. But most Canadians I knew, myself included, had never heard of Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. How does this little-known southwest corner of Alberta make it to the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites along with the likes of Great Barrier Reef and Kilimanjaro?



Curiosity was enough reason for a detour into the Waterton area during our 15-day roadtrip through the Canadian Rockies and the Alberta Prairies. Unlike our carefully preplanned week of outdoor activities in Banff and Jasper, our two full days in Waterton started with minimal pre-trip research and absolutely no expectations -- I knew there's a lake, there's a boat ride to the U.S.A. side of the lake, and that we should take our Canadian passport. That's all we knew, and the rest would come as discoveries.



A delightful first impression greeted us as we approached Waterton from the eastern prairies. Self-proclaimed as the Place where the Rockies meet the Prairies, Waterton Lakes National Park is surrounded by miles upon miles of cattle ranches, small lakes and river crossings. From here the Rocky Mountains extend south into Glacier National Park, the American half of the World Heritage Site.



The only form of public transportation linking the Canadian to the American side of the Waterton Lake comes in the form of a 45-minute trip upon a classic 80-plus-year-old wooden boat, which makes several trips a day to the Goat Haunt Ranger Station at the northern tip of Glacier National Park. Frankly speaking there isn't anything spectacular about the boat trip -- it's all about the hiking in the pristine wilderness surrounding the lake.



The most famous hike is known as the Crypt Lake Trail, once voted as Canada's best hike and famous for its breathtaking scenery, as well as its narrow cliff-side paths and the crawling through a narrow tunnel. We chose the easier and more popular Kootenai Lakes Trail, a 4km (each way) path through the rainforest into one of the park's prime moose habitats.



It was Day 10 of our trip through the Canadian Rockies, and so far we had run into bighorn sheeps, elks, several species of deer, American bisons, and even a hoary marmot ... but no moose. In fact we later learned that moose sightings were so rare in the Canadian Rockies that the native tribes considered it a fortuitous omen. The prospect of viewing one of these gentle giants in its natural habitat was the main goal of our hike, and after about an hour things started to look up as we came across a moose footprint in the mud.

We arrived at the Kootenai Lakes around 12:15 after an easy, but mosquito-plagued 75 minute hike. Time for a picnic lunch on the lakeshore, and then ...



The owners of the premises decided to come out for lunch as well. Not one, but a family of three moose came out of the woods and started diving into the lake, probably to graze on the underwater vegetation. An antlerless cow moose started first about 150 metres from our lakeshore position, then a HUGE bull moose with ginormous antlers came out a little further away. These moose behaved almost like seals, spending most of their time foraging underwater while resurfacing only to breath and spy on the surroundings.



A third moose, a younger bull moose with a smaller antler came out and stayed for an extended period of time. As I made my way through the forest to find a better position for pictures, the cow moose likely spotted me and started to make loud groans to warn her child. With the huge bull still in sight, that was as far as I was willing to push my luck on this day.



As it turned out this family of moose shared their pristine, glacial fed lake with quite a few neighbors. Beavers apparently inhabit the Kootenai Lakes, as indicated by these freshly fallen trees bearing their teethmarks. A black bear was also seen foraging around on the lake shore on this day, according to the elderly couple who watched the moose with us. So this is really prime wildlife-watching territory, on-par with Jasper National Park, according to our experience here in mid-July.



Taking the boat back to the Canadian side of the park brought us to its most famous landmark -- in fact one of the most photographed hotels in North America. The Prince of Wales Hotel is a grandiose historic hotel modeled after the finest mountain chalets in the Swiss tradition back in the 1920's, and at the time of our visit, commanded a peak summer rate of CAD$259 in their simplest room with lake view.



Walking through the extravagant hotel lobby for a few quick pics was of course free. The structure is a designated National Historic Site after all, and the period decor with the panoramic view of the lake all make for excellent photos. Afternoon tea cost CAD$30 at the time of writing, a considerable bargain compared to other Canadian landmarks like Victoria's Empress Hotel.



But it was drifting way too far from reality when a male concierge dressed in a Scottish kilt came up to the curb to meet the red limousine. Kitschy and nostalgic, there's no mistaking that this was once North America's best attempt of a posh European resort. Now it's a relatively unknown jewel buried at a remote, yet spectacular corner of the continent.



A remarkably underrated National Park for all its natural wonders, Waterton is a refreshing departure from the gradual commercialization of other Canadian Rockies parks (ie. Banff). Towering peaks and beaming glaciers, abundant wildlife viewing opportunities, and entire mountain sides carpeted with wildflowers are just some of the scenery we came across.



But stay clear of the hordes of deer roaming the townsite! You've been warned!



Further Reading:

Crown of the Continent - an excellent resource of the National Parks of Waterton and Glacier, created by National Geographics

Official National Park Website - Official info on park services, trail conditions etc.

Glacier National Park Website - Official site of the American half of the World Heritage Site, including information on the Kootenai Lake and Crypt Lake trails

Waterton's Official Tourism Site - excellent list of activities and accommodations

Waterton Cruise - The historic tour boat connecting the Canadian side of the lake with the American side

Outpost Motel - the hotel where we stayed, very cheap (CAD$70 in peak summer season), very clean, but located 40 minutes away in Cardston

Waterton-Crowsnest B&B - List of bed and breakfast accommodations in the surrounding area

Alpenwood Guesthouse - An inexpensive little B&Bs in the surrounding area

Great Canadian Barn Dance - A family accommodation and a uniquely Canadian experience, if your visit happens to coincide with the weekly barn dance