Curious about Horse Meat in Matsumoto

I must confess that I always, ALWAYS fall for exotic local cuisines wherever I go. It's not that I don't appreciate the cuteness of rabbits or that I don't get grossed out by grasshoppers ... but if it ends up on the dinner plate of the locals, then give me my portion too onegai-shimasu! So when I heard about the local specialty of BASASHI while planning our visit to Matsumoto ... well you know the rest of the story ...

What's BASASHI? I'm not going to dance around trying to euphemize these two simple words ... BA as in horse, and SASHI as in sashimi. Enough said. Your imagination is exactly correct ... we're talking thin, bloody slices of raw horse meat. So if beef sashimi is beyond your acceptance, you should stop reading roughly halfway down this article.



But don't let the culinary history of the locals deter you from visiting one of Japan's most beautiful original castles. Matsumoto may present an impression a modern industrial city upon your arrival at the train station, but take a slow walk along the city's narrow side streets and you'll soon encounter vestiges of its glorious feudal past as a fortified stronghold.

Strategically situated along an ancient mountain route between the Shogun's government in Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and the Emperor in Kyoto, Matsumoto has always been an important castle town in Central Japan and still boasts one of the most recognizable national symbols, the one big tourist attraction any high school student in Japan could name ...



The imposing, black-lacquered Matsumoto Castle dating from the 16th Century, best known as one of the "Four National Treasure Castles" of Japan and on par with the more internationally famous Himeji. And to keep itself on par with Himeji, the city is actually putting together an application for the castle to be recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. But to the Japanese themselves, Matsumoto Castle is already widely recognized as THE perfect opposite of Himeji Castle, with its dark masculine defensive structures forming a stark contrast against Himeji's white plaster walls -- hence the nickname for Matsumoto's "Crow Castle" versus the "White Egret" of Himeji. For a quick visual comparison, here's a picture of Himeji from our previous visit:


As one can see, Himeji is more artistically ostentatious with its sprinkling of roof-top ornaments along the curving rooflines, and its perfectly white plastered walls decorated with large slatted windows. Matsumoto on the other hand is all about strong, masculine straight lines, rectangular crenellations, and a sloping stone base protected by a 20-metres-wide moat. Both are undisputable masterpieces of Japanese architecture, but if I have to pick just one favorite castle ... for me it would be Matsumoto.



Either Matsumoto or Himeji would make a great half-day trip if you're in the neighborhood of Kansai or Central Japan. Unlike the modern concrete-constructed museums like the Osaka Castle or the Nagoya Castle, here you get to walk on the same creaky wooden planks that had been smoothened by the feet of the warlords and his troops for centuries, climb the steep wooden staircases all the way to the top, and stick your head into the defensive crenellations and archer holes.



One of the many staircases leading to the top floors. It's not surprising that many visitors choose to descend the stairs facing inwards, as the act of carrying one's own shoes in a bag with one hand and tip-toeing down the steep stairs in nothing but slipper socks proves a little too intimidating. We managed quite okay as we've gotten quite used to carrying our own shoes at this point of our long journey.



The large collection of historical armours and weapons nicely focussed on one general theme -- the widespread use of firearms at the period of the Castle's construction in the late 16th Century and its effect on Japanese military technology of the time. There were castle construction plans and models, miniature cannons and arquebuses, and helmets and breastplates designed specifically to withstand arquebus shots, as pictured above. These designs must have seen limited use though, as the war ended soon after in Year 1600.



If you get easily bored by exhibits and explanation like me, there's always nice views of the castle grounds just outside the windows. Samurai residences and administrative manor houses were burned down through the course of history and no longer remains, and is now replaced by the lush greenery of the castle park. In case you're wondering where we were able to find this large window among the castle's little crenellation openings, this picture was taken from the Tsukimi-yagura (moon-viewing tower), a newer wing built during peacetime.



Of course the best view is always afforded at the very top of the Tenshu tower, which stands at 6 storeys and 29 metres high above the surrounding park. This is the westerly view on a sunny but slightly foggy day, with the quasi-westernized tower of the Old Kaichi school visible in the background. Unfortunately this is probably the best viewing direction IMHO, as the other three directions all have big ugly rectangular buildings in the foreground blocking the view, reminding the visitor that this is a 21st Century industrial city after all.



There are a few other attractions besides the castle. The Old Kaichi school, Japan's first westernized elementary school dating from 1873, is located just a block west of the castle. The world's largest Wasabi plantation is located near the town of Hotaka roughly 30 minutes to the north by train, if you're interested in a unique farm visit with Wasabi-flavored beer and ice-cream. But aside from these plus a handful of little specialty museums (eg.the Ukiyo-e Museum), the city really starts to drop off in terms of tourism resources. My own evaluation is that Matsumoto is a small and pleasant city to spend a day, but it's really no match for Hida Takayama or Kanazawa if you have time for only one city in Central Japan. And this is precisely why we didn't even stay overnight here -- IMHO there are more interesting places to stay in Central Japan, as I'll explain in the next few articles.


WHAT ABOUT THE HORSE SASHIMI?

OK. I've kept some of you waiting long enough. If horse meat is a taboo in your culture or if you have no interest in reading about Horse Sashimi, you can stop now. Otherwise ... I know I'll get flamed for this ...


Food Review: MIKAWAYA (Matsumoto)
Address: Nagano-ken Matsumoto-shi Chuo 3-8-14
Hours: 11:30-14:00, 17:00-21:00; Closed on Sundays
Website/Map: From Gurume Pia (Japanese)
Directions: Exiting JR Matsumoto station and walk East along Route 143 for about 8 blocks. At this point Route 143 will follow a smaller street (Ohashi Dori) to the left ... so turn left to keep following it. Finally, turn right at the next block. Mikawaya is the large antique-looking house on the right hand side of the street, right across from the Ryukoji temple. If you get lost, just politely ask a young guy where Ryukoji is. The whole walk should take about 15 minutes ... or you can take the Town Sneaker shuttle bus' Northern Course and get off at "Ohashi Dori Minami" (see Transportation section below).



If you're just waiting to see me digging into my plate of bloodied Horse Sashimi like a wild man, you may be mildly disappointed. Our review candidate is actually one of the highly cultured culinary establishments of Matsumoto, a historical institution frequented by local dignitaries and men of literature. Today it is still housed within a venerable two-storey-tall Machiya townhouse with authentic dark wood lattice windows on white plastered walls. You'd think it's a museum of some sort except for the subtle greeting written on the old Noren curtain with a few simple words:

Matsumoto Mikawaya, established in the 16th year of Emperor Meiji (Year 1883 in the Western world)



Before going further I have to point out that I live in Canada where the consumption of horses is considered somewhat taboo, due largely to the public perception of horses as companion animals or pets. But I also understand that serving horse meat is quite the norm in some regions of Italy, France, China and Japan ... incidentally all culinarily influential nations with great gourmet traditions. And on this trip to Central Japan, I felt that I owed myself an excursion to a culinary institution that specializes in this regional delicacy which I have no chance of trying out at home. That, is precisely why I chose to come to Mikawaya.

Prior to arriving in Japan I did my homework on Japanese foodie websites such as Tabelog, just to see other peoples' opinion on what to order and what to avoid at Mikawaya. Apparently the two most popular dishes here were the Sakura-nabe (literally "cherry blossom hotpot"), which appeared to be very similar to Sukiyaki but with horse meat replacing beef, and the Basashi, which was thinly-sliced raw horse meat served with a grated ginger soy sauce. As we arrived on a slow Friday afternoon, the only other client, a conservatively dressed Ojisan in his fifties, was having precisely the Sakura-nabe. In fact each table had a natural gas stove set-up just for Sakura-nabe, as you can see in the picture above. Surrounding us with its square wooden beams and latticed windows, Mikawaya was exactly how I imagined it to be -- antique, dimly illuminated, and tastefully Japanese.



Even the menu took the form of a handwritten ledger book from a century back, with each offering and its price written simply in calligraphy brush strokes of black ink. A set meal of Basashi Teishoku cost 1995 yen (CAD$20), a side order of Basashi cost 1575 yen (CAD$16), while a side order of horse meat skewers cost 1470 yen (CAD$15) ... and if you can't read Japanese? I guess you'll just have to take their word for it.

But the bad news came on the flip side of the menu -- the Sakura-nabe was available for 2940 yen (CAD$30) per person, but the minimum order was for two people. Now we had two choices: either both of us would share the Sakura-nabe, or I would order the Basashi Teishoku and leave my wife the freedom to order something else other than horse meat. Not a tough choice, given the fact that she was generally less adventurous than I was towards unfamiliar cuisine. Within 15 minutes I got what I'd been wishing for ... and then some ...



Whoa!! I never had Basashi before, and I had expected just a few thin slices of raw but only slightly moist horse meat, perhaps even torched on the outside and pre-mixed with a dressing -- kind of like how Beef Carpaccio is served in Izakayas throughout Japan. I certainly didn't expect it to be a large fillet of thickly sliced horse meat, only slightly cold, soft and still dripping with blood. Seriously ... picking up each slice with my chopsticks revealed a small dab of blood on the plate ... it was THAT raw. Now I'm not a squeamish eater -- sea cucumber intestines and coagulated chicken blood are among thing that I actually enjoy eating -- but thick, blood-soaked slices of meat that was starting to approach room temperature if I didn't finish it within the next few minutes? Just by the looks of it, that's blurring the line between enjoyment and bravado.

But of course, I had learned my lessons through travelling that I should never judge a dish by its looks. I started to rub into each slice of Basashi a generous helping of grated ginger, which I knew was provided for neutralizing any strong and unwelcome taste in the meat, and then dipped them into Sashimi soy sauce. As the bloodiness of the meat was still bothering me a little, I initiated the first slice into my mouth with a small ball of rice, as if I was having Sushi ...

And it's actually not bad! Once I got past the psychological barrier, the meat revealed a delicate sweetness accentuated by the Sashimi soy sauce and, needless to emphasize, the juiciness of the fillet cut. The texture was little different from lean beef, except that it was incredibly tender -- much more so than I would expect from a beef cut of similar leaness. Before long I was having my Basashi without the rice, and started to truly enjoy my lunch without further hesitation.

Towards the end I did find the Basashi portion a little too large for me ... I guess the blood and everything else was getting to me after all. Like any decent Teishoku set, the meal did come with all the fixings such as a soup, a cold appetizer dish, and of course steamed rice and pickles. The 1995 yen (CAD$20) was quite worthwhile for a full and interesting meal that I'll surely remember for years.



And for my wife? The tasting of one slice was quite enough Basashi for her, as she went back to work on her Pork Misoyaki. Unfortunately the quality of the pork was no different from what can be expected at any little family-run eatery, and certainly not worthy of the Mikawaya name. Perhaps we should have had the Sakura-nabe for two, which should be interesting but also twice as expensive.



It was probably not the best time to ponder this sensitive question, especially right after such a full and gracious meal ... but where DOES Mikawaya's horse meat come from? The restaurant's own literature claims that it only sources a domestic Japanese breed known as Dosanko, all supplied by licensed farms in Hokkaido. I don't know if this is supposed to make me feel better, as I've previously heard many stories of how race horse stables often file a "change of usage" for their sub-standard and retired race horses and sell them into the food chain. There are even rumours about the 1987 Kentucky Derby champ ending up in a Japanese stable upon retirement and ... well you can imagine his ending. Not that I don't trust Mikawaya's declaration though -- a 120-year-old restaurant of such high acclaim is probably the safest place to find truly uncontaminated, farmed horse meat -- but this is just something that unsuspecting culinary tourists may want to keep an eye on.

The final verdict? For me it was more of a cultural adventure than a food tasting really. The sweet tenderness of the Basashi was certainly interesting to try, but frankly the cold, dripping bloodiness started to lose its appeal after five or six slices. A half order of it would serve very well as an appetizer though, and following it with a Sakura-nabe for two would be a perfect introduction to horse meat.

Bill for Two Persons

Basashi Teishoku	1995 yen
Pork Misoyaki Teishoku	840 yen
TOTAL	2835 yen (CAD$28)

TRANSPORTATION

As one of the major JR stations in Central Japan, Matsumoto is served by Express Trains directly from Tokyo and Nagoya. Tokyo's Shinjuku Station is only 2.5 hours and 6700 yen (CAD$67) away, while the Express Train to Nagoya takes only 2 hours and cost 6000 yen. From Osaka or Kyoto it's probably easiest to just transfer through Nagoya.

If you're starting out from Tokyo, a much cheaper and almost-as-fast alternative is to take the JR Highway Bus outside the Shinjuku Station, costing half the price of the train (3400 yen) and getting you there in 3 hours.

But my own suggestion would be to combine your visit to Matsumoto with a trip to Takayama -- and a side trip to Kamikochi and see the National Park if you have the time. All this can be done by taking the Nohi Bus, which operates a Matsumoto-Takayama bus route with multiple daily departures taking 2.5 hours each way. The connection to Kamikochi is roughly halfway between the two cities, where you can get off at the hotspring resort of Hirayu Onsen (see article on Kamikochi for more information) and transfer to a short bus ride to Kamikochi. And the best part is ... Nohi Bus has a wonderful deal -- a 3-DAY, 6400 YEN BUS PASS with unlimited hop-on hop-off between Matsumoto, Takayama, Kamikochi, Shirahone Onsen, and the five Oku-Hida Onsengo towns from Hirayu Onsen to Shin-Hotaka.

You can see the Bus Timetables and details about the 3-Day "Norikura-Kamikochi Open Ticket" at Nohi Bus' English Website. Just one word of caution if you plan to use the bus pass -- it is sold only at Takayama's Nohi Bus terminal, which means that you'll have to get to Takayama first and then travel to Matsumoto and Kamikochi using the pass. It's still quite a deal nonetheless, if it fits into your travel plans. Otherwise you'll need to buy your bus tickets one by one.



Once you get here, central Matsumoto is really small enough to explore on foot, as the Castle is only about 20 minutes walk from the JR Station. But if you're lazy like us, an alternative is to take the above mini shuttle bus known as the Town Sneaker. There are a total of three routes, and we found the "Northern Course" to be the most useful, as it covers the Castle (get off at "Matsumoto Castle Kuromon"), the Old Kaichi School (bus stop "Takajomachi"), and the Mikawaya restaurant (bus stop "Ohashi Dori Minami"). It's 190 yen (CAD$2) per ride and 500 yen (CAD$5) for a Day Pass, which is not a bad deal since you get 60 yen off the Castle Admission simply by flashing your Town Sneaker Day Pass. Check the Town Sneaker's English site for the latest timetable.

MY WIFE'S CORNER The world's largest scale cultivation of Wasabi -- the Daio Wasabi Farm -- is located just 30 minutes north of Matsumoto. This is a matter of great pride to the citizens of this region, as the Wasabi plant is notorious for requiring the cleanest of water sources for growth. Even though Wasabi may be best known for its use in Sushi, virtually none of the Sushi-ya we've ever visited in Japan served freshly-grated Wasabi ... I guess even the Japanese are getting used to the powdered stuff nowadays. This cellphone pendant is called ... guess what ... the Wasabi Version, and is marked for sale only within the Nagano Prefecture. So technically you may find this in Matsumoto, Nagano, Suwa, and even as far south as Tsumago.

Hotspring Hopping in Oku-Hida Onsengo

My skin must have wrinkled like a relief map of the surrounding mountains of Central Japan, as I took 4 baths in 9 different hotspring pools -- all in the course of a 16-hour period.

Even though I've had some hotspring experience in Canada, Hungary and Eastern Japan prior to this trip, to visit a mountain-side hotspring in its natural state in the hotspring-crazed nation of Japan was a highlight I looked forward to for months leading to the day. This was in a remote mountain valley in Central Japan, situated at a turn-off on Route 158 halfway between the cities of Takayama and Matsumoto, not far from the road into Kamikochi. This valley consists of a loose collection of five little hotspring towns -- Hirayu, Shin-Hirayu, Fukuchi, Tochio, and Shin-Hotaka -- known together as Oku-Hida Onsengo.



We picked Hirayu Onsen out of the five towns for our overnight stay, mainly due to its location as the main transportation hub in the region. This allowed us to arrive from Takayama in the morning, take a 30-minute bus ride to see the National Park at Kamikochi, return in the late afternoon for some bathing, then depart for Matsumoto the next morning.

Upon arrival at Hirayu Onsen, one of the most recognizable landmarks was the tall lantern-stand outside the entrance of our Ryokan (more about it below), and the narrow hotspring pool at its stone base providing a free-of-charge foot bath for weary travelers waiting for the next bus connection. There's another bigger foot bath at the centre of the village if you're a foot bath fan, but this one is located next to the bus terminal and allows you to see the buses coming in while you enjoy the water.



Hirayu Onsen is an Onsen (hotspring) town after all, and sightseeing attractions is just not its forte. There is one little museum in town known as the Hirayu Minzoku-kan which exhibits three thatched-roof farmhouses, but the main draw for the 500-yen entrance fee is the bathing in the open-air hotspring pool within the museum grounds.

The other attraction in town is the large park surrounding the Hirayu Ootaki, famous for its illuminated display of a frozen waterfall during the winter. We felt that it didn't justify our time as we arrived in May ... we've seen enough waterfalls living in Canada.



The town itself was small and nondescript, and could be mistaken for any of the hundreds of similar hotspring towns across Japan. But as all hotspring-goers know, it's the quality and ambience of the hotspring pools that really matters. So I thought I'd start by seeking out the town's most famous hotspring pool ...



... the Kami-no-Yu, the small, rustic great-granddaddy of all hotsprings in the region. Legend has it that an invading 16th Century warlord discovered this copious source of spring water, which has stayed true to its origin as just a couple of natural rock-lined pools in the middle of the wilderness. This is pretty remarkable considering the Japanese tendency to over-develop any hotspring resort -- just look at the "original" hotspring pool in Gero just a couple hours drive to the southwest ... the source once-revered as one of the "Three Famous Hotsprings" is now just a concrete pool right underneath a highway overpass surrounded by a myriad of ugly hotels. Talk about killing the goose that laid the golden egg!

As you can see I was pretty stoked about my first dip in a Japanese natural hotspring ... one that is outside a Ryokan or a public bathhouse. The path to Kami-no-Yu was well marked with signs like this one ... no English on the signage of course, nor do they expect any foreigners. Even though the town brochure said 10 minutes walking distance, it probably took me closer to 20 minutes as it turned out to be a long, winding uphill climb, which seemed even longer as the occasionally bather zoomed by in a car.



Already out of breath and in desperate need for a hot bath to recuperate my thighs, I finally made it to the entrance at about 17:00. As you can see the closing time seemed to vary with little warning, and I suspect they would just close sooner on slower days and run until 19:00 on holidays and weekends. The other finer prints are just the generic bathing rules such as "No bottles and cans in the open-air bath." A few metres after this sign stood the concession stand, where a middle aged lady collected my 500 yen (CAD$5) entrance fee and also sold various refreshments and fruits. Well, it's not TOO basic after all -- I would have loved a free bath.



As it turned out there were a total of four pools -- one open-air bath for males, one for females, one private indoor bath for families, and one other private bath in the form of a giant metal pot. So ... no Konyoku (mixed-sex bathing) ... unless you bring your whole family and have a big bath together like some Japanese families do. Once you choose the pool you want, it's just a matter of stashing your clothes inside one of the baskets in the little wooden shed (no lockers ... so don't bring anything valuable), then bring your own Tenugui (small wiping cloth) with you and head off to the bath.



And bring your own soap and shampoo too if you don't want to use the generic body soap offered by the facility, as Japanese bathing etiquette requires cleaning and rinsing oneself thoroughly before venturing into the pool. As I stood naked and washed myself at the pool side, the faint odor of sulphur emanated in the air, almost in an inviting way as I prepared to test the water temperature with my feet.

The edge of the pool was warmer than luke-warm, but not as hot as I would prefer. It started at only around 37 degrees Celcius by my estimation, but got increasingly higher close to the spring source, which was directed into the pool from above using a bamboo pole. The colour of the water was just slightly yellow, and bits of whitish minerals could be seen suspended in the cloudy water. Just two middle-aged Japanese men shared the bath with me on this weekday afternoon in May. Neither stayed for very long, which was great since I could then bring out my cheap point-and-shoot camera for a few pics of my own.



Now THIS was the hotspring experience I had come for -- a shoulder massage from the steaming hot water source, hidden in the seclusion of nature and uninterrupted by any other bather. This moment alone was worth spending the night at this little hotspring town in the middle of nowhere. And the spring source was HOT!!! Very hot in fact, even higher than the maximum 42 degrees Celcius offered at most hotspring resorts. I couldn't last very long under this temperature and had to get out of the pool, cool myself down, then get my other shoulder massaged and so on for a few times.

After 40 minutes or so all my aches were gone, and of course the road back to town was all downhill from here, so to speak. Funny I never noticed the beauty of the lush green forest and the serene mountain stream during the grinding uphill walk ...



Hotel Review: HIRAYU-NO-MORI (Hirayu Onsen)
Address: Gifu-ken Takayama-shi Oku-Hida Onsengo Hirayu 763-1
Price: 9000 yen per person including dinner and breakfast (1000 yen less for rooms without private bathrooms)
Website/Map: http://www.hirayunomori.co.jp
How To Book: Through the official website
Directions: One minute walk from the Hirayu Onsen bus terminal, towards the uphill side on the right side of the road.


Baths, baths and even more open-air baths ... this is the main reason people come to Oku-Hida Onsengo. I have to borrow a picture from the Ryokan's official site since I took the bath at night and didn't bring my camera. Please contact me if you're the owner of this photograph and would like me to take this photo down. Otherwise, this is an excellent illustration of the hotspring experience you can expect at any one of the many Ryokans along this valley.

Being one of the largest Ryokans in the region, Hirayu-no-Mori boasts a total of 16 fully open-air hotspring pools, with 7 on the male side and 9 on the female side. I walked in at the uncharacteristic hour of 21:00, when almost all of the guests have retired to their rooms and I had sole possession of all 7 hotspring pools on the male side. It was a clear early summer night, with the sky so clear that I could pick out the big dipper and the milky way while floating in the hotspring pools. And yes, I did try all 7 of the pools, and ended up spending most of my time in the two hottest ones.



Again there was no mixed-sex bathing in the public section, but for couples and families, the Ryokan provided a few private baths for its guests on a first-come-first-serve basis. These were giant semi-outdoor bathtubs in the form of semi-spherical metal pots, divided into an indoor half and an outdoor half by a wooden sliding divider. With a roof over the head and just metres from the Ryokan property's wooden fence, there really wasn't much of a view to speak of. But somehow we found it so relaxing that we came back for one more dip the next morning before checking out.



You don't even need to stay overnight in Hirayu-no-Mori to enjoy the bathing facilities, as the Ryokan offers a "Day Bathing" ticket for a measly 500 yen (CAD$5), which is the same price as the natural Kami-no-Yu but with a whole selection of nicer, albeit artificial pools. This could be a great plan if you're only passing through this area for the day, and are in need for a hotspring fix and a lunch spot. There is one public restaurant in the Ryokan, serving typical Central Japanese dishes such as Hida Beef and wild mountain vegetables.



You can see the sign of a successful hotspring Ryokan by the plethora of souvenir items in its gift shop. Most of these would make nice gifts to bring home to friends and family, but for us there is only one essential item to bring home ...



... Oku-Hida Onsengo's own Yu-no-Hana, the mineral salts collected from the evaporation of the hotspring water and the true essence of any Onsen. Two spoonfuls into my bathtub and I can enjoy the same cloudy, skin-smoothening hotspring water at the comfort of my home. This is by far the best natural bath salt I've ever used, and it's only 315 yen (CAD$3) for each 250 gram pouch.

So the bathing facilities were quite excellent, now what about the room and the meals?



There are at least three types of rooms to choose from. Our Tatami-mat room with ensuite bathroom cost 9000 yen (CAD$90) per person including dinner and breakfast, and a Western (2 single beds) room with ensuite bathroom also went for the same price. If you can do without your own private bathroom, you can get a Tatami-mat room for only 8000 yen (CAD$80) per person. Now this is the weekday rate, as the price goes up a little on Saturdays, holidays and the summer peak season. If you're a fan of hotsprings, or if you just want an authentic Japanese hotspring resort experience, 8000 yen per person including dinner and breakfast is fairly hard to beat as far as full-service Ryokans go.



On to the dinner, which was quite ordinary and simple by Ryokan standards, but still consisted of nine courses.



Once again we're served the signature dish of any rustic Central Japanese dinner -- a roasted Iwana trout dusted with sea salt. The pairing of the saltiness of the Iwana Shioyaki with a sweet chestnut was interesting though. First of all that's quite a contrast of flavors and textures, and secondly ... I thought chestnuts are usually served in the Autumn season as far as Japanese cuisine goes!



To me the interesting thing about this dish wasn't the tempura itself, but the Chef's display of confidence in his own ability evident through his decision of presenting Matcha salt instead of the ubiquitous Ten-tsuyu sauce for dipping. This showed that the Chef wanted his clients to focus on the delicate flavors of his choice ingredients, consisting of Maitake mushrooms, Kabocha squash, and a bamboo shoot. This was probably the best dish of the meal, though IMHO it's still a notch or two lower than what I would expect from a Tempura specialist restaurant ... the amount of residual oil was too heavy for this dish to be considered a complete success.



At the end we came to the dinner's most expensive ingredient -- four thick slices of the region's famous Hida Beef. Well, let's take off the decorative wrapping and examine the beef marbling ...



Well, there was a fair amount of marbling content, but the distribution wasn't entirely even -- you could see a large white area of fatty connective tissue in each of the four slices, and certain areas without any marbling. As expected this wasn't quite as tender as some of the other Hida Beef dishes we've had on this trip -- in fact this was probably the lowest in quality ... an A3 by my estimation. If you want to see a visual comparison against top A5 quality Hida Beef, take a look at the Hida Beef in Hoba Miso at Shirakawago's Shiraogi restaurant.



The next morning we started our routine with another hotspring dip in the private Kama-furo bath, then went to the restaurant for breakfast at 07:00. Once again the breakfast was simple by Ryokan standards, but of course the rice was all-you-can-eat, and we did find our meal quite enjoyable due to two of our favorite breakfast items ...



It was my wife's favorite again -- the Onsen Tamago (hotspring egg) served in Dashi broth. Even though we've been having this dish practically once every couple mornings, we just couldn't get enough of this incredible smoothness of the soft-boiled yolk surrounded by the even softer egg white. I should try to make this at home sometime ... once I get a decent water thermometer to help me keep the water at exactly 70 degrees Celcius for half an hour.



Then it was time for my favorite -- the quintessential Central Japanese dish of Hoba Miso, prepared simply by placing the local red miso and vegetables on top of a dried magnolia leaf and grilling on an open flame. The portion here wasn't quite generous enough for my liking, but it was still memorable as this turned out to the my last encounter with Hoba Miso on this trip. I still wish I had bought a stack of Hoba leaves back in Hida Takayama ... I'm missing this dish so much as I ponder what to cook for breakfast on lazy weekends.

Now we've seen it all ... the hotspring, the room and the meals ... but was it worth the 9000 yen (CAD$90) per person? Frankly the main selling point here is the wide selection of open-air hotspring baths, and it almost seemed that everything else was deemed secondary by the Ryokan management. The room was comfortable but really nothing to write home about, and the meals were quite ordinary really, in terms of both quality and quantity ... or perhaps we're just spoilt by the Ryori Ryokans (gourmet inns) we visited earlier during this trip. Nevertheless 9000 yen was still a fairly cheap price for a full-service Ryokan with excellent hotspring facilities, and taking into account its excellent location as a base for visiting Kamikochi on a day trip, I really should have no complaints.



TRANSPORTATION


Forget about train service to this treacherous region in the middle of the Japan Alps -- highway buses serve as the main form of public transportation here, operated mostly by the Nohi Bus company. The bus terminal at Hirayu Onsen (shown above) is the major transportation hub of the region and the gateway into the other four hotspring towns, as well as to the National Park resort of Kamikochi.

Multiple daily connections run to Takayama (1 hour to the west) and Matsumoto (1.5 hour to the east), both being popular tourist destinations and well worth your visit (see the two articles on Takayama here and here if interested). Both Takayama and Matsumoto are major stations on the JR Train network, and you should have no problem connecting to Tokyo or Osaka in one or two transfers. See Nohi Bus' English website for the latest bus timetables.



If you're planning to arrive from Tokyo directly without stopping over at Matsumoto or Takayama, Nohi Bus operates a daily service from Shinjuku that will take you to Hirayu Onsen in about 5 hours. But this bus is by reservations only, and you need to either phone up Nohi Bus' reservation centre (and be able to speak Japanese), or book through a bus ticket reservation website such as J-Bus (and be able to read Japanese). For most foreigners it's probably easiest to just hop on the Chuo Line train from Shinjuku to Matsumoto, then transfer to the Nohi Bus.

MY WIFE'S CORNER The fermentation of soy beans into Miso paste is a tradition dating back at least a couple thousand years, especially in the remote mountain hamlets of Central and Northern Japan where the effective storage of summer crops was essential for surviving through the long and snowy winter. To this date the areas surrounding Suwa and Niigata in Central Japan remain some of the best known Miso-producing regions. And one of the most popular national brands of Miso? Suwa's own Shinshu Ichi Miso with its three-centuries-old corporate history as well as one of Japan's most recognizable brand-mascots -- the colourful Miko-chan. This cellphone pendant presents a funny cross-over with Kitty and Miko-chan bathing in a bowl of Miso soup among the tofu cubes. It was bought for about 450 yen somewhere in Central Japan ... but we don't really remember where.

A Day-Trip to the National Park at Kamikochi

Between visiting the world-class destination of Hida Takayama and a dip in the hotspring pools of Oku-Hida Onsengo, we spent a leisurely day walking the National Park trails at Kamikochi.

This is a pristine mountain valley carved out by the glacial water of the Azusa River and surrounded by some of the tallest peaks of Central Japan's Northern Alps. For years it has been a favourite expedition base for Japanese mountaineers, a mecca for hikers and nature seekers, and most recently, a re-discovered destination for international tourists.



So Kamikochi is well worth a trip anyway you look at it, especially since we're right in the neighbourhood on our way from Hida Takayama to Matsumoto. But for any potential visitor, the main issues are ... 1) it's only open from late April to mid November due to heavy snowfall through winter and spring, and 2) even in summer the mountain climate can get very unpredictable, and the only road into Kamikochi occasionally gets closed off after rock slides. As a result we actually had a Plan B -- we would spend our day in Hida Furukawa instead if we couldn't reach Kamikochi.

Fortunately it turned out to be a glorious sunny day, albeit a little misty amid the moist mountain air of late May. Starting out from Hida Takayama we first took a one-hour bus ride to the hotspring resort of Hirayu Onsen where we dropped off our backpacks, then took another 25 minute bus into the vicinity of Kamikochi (see Transportation section below).



We got off the bus at the scenic Taisho Pond at 10:30, about the same time as a hundred or so Taiwanese and Korean tourists -- definitely not an ideal introduction to the supposedly serene Chubu Sangaku National Park. I suppose it was just like Banff or Yellowstone, but then I realized that at least the Japanese Government is doing its part in banning private cars and most forms of non-public transportation into Kamikochi, so I shouldn't complain.



Back to the scenery -- this picture was taken under the shadow of an active volcano as we walked around Taisho Pond, which came into being only after 1915 when the lava from a major eruption blocked off the water of the Azusa River and flooded this wide valley. The dead trees still standing in the middle of the lake form one of the most recognizable images of Kamikochi, and have been designated Natural Monument status.



The fuming volcano of Yake-dake (literally "Burning Peak") erupted as late as 1995, but it's much more famous for the eruption during the reign of Emperor Taisho which gave birth to the Taisho Pond. Today you can still see the tree-less path of the lava down the side of mountain, and if you're really adventurous, there's a hiking path to the summit where you can get close and personal with one of the less active craters. For us though, gingerly treading the other side of the lake is quite close enough.



There are a few famous and easily accessible scenic spots in Kamikochi -- the lava-formed lake of Taisho Pond at the downstream, the stretch of the Azusa River around the Kappa-bashi bridge at the middle, and the smaller lake of Myojin Pond further upstream. According to the park pamphlet, it should take 65 minutes of non-stop walking from the Taisho Pond to Kappa-bashi, and another 60 minutes from Kappa-bashi to Myojin Pond. But from our own experience, the scenery was so beautiful and the mountain streams so crisp and refreshing that it was impossible not to walk down to the river bank, take a drink from the bluish glacial water, then lounge around on the rocks while playing with the wild pigeons. Feel free to call us slackers, but it really took us nearly two and a half hours just to complete that 65 minutes walking distance from Taisho Pond to Kappa-bashi.



This was in late spring when the snowy glaciers started to melt into the rushing Azusa River, turning into an incredible ribbon of turquoise blue that went on for miles before draining into the Taisho Pond. I live in mountainous Western Canada where glacial streams are quite common, but I had never seen another that comes even close to this remarkable display of colour. There's nothing different about the water content of course, as the optical phenomenon is really caused by the white granite rocks on the river bed.



The spectrum of colours came into a full bloom about half-way towards the Kappa-bashi, where the underground hotsprings grant their warmth and minerals to the shallow Tashiro Pond and the surrounding wetland. In the winter the rust brown bottom of the Tashiro Pond would stay visible in a world of silver, even when the much larger Taisho Pond freezes solid.



The surrounding wetland also supported an amazingly colourful collection of algae growth, from deep emerald green to bright orange. And being in Japan, you'd have to expect running into a few painters and photographers who would sit there for hours just to capture the perfect moment.



The unspoilt wetland along the trails sprouted thousands of fresh, young fiddlehead ferns, organically grown inside a National Park and looking so succulent and crisp, which reminded me of last night's dinner ...

Just joking ... I better stick to our topic of eco-tourism!



We finally reached the Kappa-bashi bridge, possibly the most-photographed landmark of Kamikochi, after 2.5 hours ... I suspect that even the most elderly Japanese hikers would have overtaken us along the way. At this point of convergence of two upstream branches of the Azusa, white water roared underneath while the snowy peaks of the Hotaka mountain range tower over everything else in sight.



Even though it's Japan's third highest mountain after Mount Fuji and Mount Kita, the looming Hotaka appeared so close that you'd think you can reach out and touch it. It may not look to be 3190 metres tall from here, but one shouldn't forget that Kamikochi itself is a plateau of 1500 metres.



We did wander a little further upstream, but not quite as far as the Myojin Pond. The lush green underwater vegetation here attracted a pair of gorgeous Mandarin ducks, which in turn attracted a small crowd along the shores. Sorry I don't have a picture to show, as the pair grew uncomfortable with the crowd and flew away (I didn't know Mandarin ducks could fly!) before either of our cameras could get a decent shot.



A collection of optical equipment in front of the Visitor Centre, just a couple minutes walk from the Kappa-bashi. The cause of amazement here wasn't the numbers or the sophistication of the equipment, but the way their owners would just leave them unsupervised while going inside for souvenirs and maps.



Raw cedar pillars and wooden beams abound, the Visitor Centre serves its informational purpose quite well besides just plain lookin' good. It provides the mountain weather forecast, 1:25000 topographic maps for mountaineers, trail maps for the rest of us, flora and fauna guidebooks, and a gallery of absolutely stunning Kamikochi photos from some of Japan's top nature photographers. We just couldn't resist buying the Kamikochi Visitor's Guidebook containing all these amazing shots, and for 1500 yen (CAD$15), it was well worth the money.



What About Food?

Lunch options are few as expected in the middle of a National Park. For those who have the time and money to splurge, the dining room of the magnificent Kamikochi Imperial Hotel is located about 10 minutes walk from the Bus Terminal. But being the cheap backpackers we are, we just followed the local crowds towards the Kamikochi Shokudo, a large canteen located on the second floor of the Bus Terminal.



I remember there being six or seven items on the menu on this day: Tonkatsu, a few kinds of curries, Hayashi rice, ramen, Shogayaki pork, and smaller snacks like Onigiri riceballs. Even though it's cafeteria food, the warmth of Curry Tonkatsu looked inviting after a few hours in the cool mountain air.



This was definitely not the place for exciting culinary discoveries. Everything tasted as average and uninspiring as you would expect from a cafeteria, but then it's really about having a quick lunch and getting back to the outdoor playground. At less than 2000 yen for two lunches, we've got no complaints.

Bill for Two Persons

Curry Tonkatsu Teishoku	~900 yen
Shoyu Ramen with Onigiri	~900 yen
TOTAL	~1800 yen (CAD$18)

Accommodation

We didn't stay in Kamikochi for the night -- at the end we chose to stay at the nearby hotspring resort of Hirayu Onsen instead -- so I can only refer you to the cheap accommodation choices that were under my consideration:

Nishiitoya - Room + 2 Meals for 8000 yen per person, 5 minutes walk from Bus Terminal

Kamonji-goya - Room + 2 Meals for 7000 yen per person, 1 hour walk from Bus Terminal

Myojinkan - Room + 2 Meals for 8000 yen per person, 1 hour walk from Bus Terminal



Transportation

As mentioned above, the only road into Kamikochi is opened only from mid April to late November -- it simply gets way too treacherous once the snow season arrives.



The easiest way to reach Kamikochi is to take the Nohi Bus, which operates a frequent service between the local transportation hub of Hirayu Onsen and the Kamikochi Bus Terminal near the Kappa-bashi bridge. A round-trip costs 1800 yen (CAD$18) with the bus departing from both terminals at roughly 30 minute intervals between 08:00 and 17:00, making it the most convenient way to get in and out. Multiple buses connect to Hirayu Onsen from the nearby cities of Takayama (1 hour), Matsumoto (1.5 hours), and even as far away as Tokyo (4.5 hours). See Nohi Bus's English website for the latest schedules.

One little trick about the bus from Hirayu Onsen is that it will make a quick stop at the Taisho Pond on the way to Kamikochi Bus Terminal, which means that if you plan on visiting Taisho Pond anyway, you can get off there and follow the trail to the Bus Terminal without having to do a return trip. The reverse doesn't quite work since the bus departing for Hirayu Onsen generally gets filled at the Kamikochi Bus Terminal and won't stop at Taisho Pond to pick up any passengers. You may want to keep that in mind as you plan your hiking route.



An alternative way is to start from Matsumoto, taking the cogwheel railway to Shin Shimajima and transferring to a bus to Kamikochi. The entire trip takes about 1.5 hours, departs every 45 minutes and costs 4400 yen roundtrip. Check the official Alpico website for the latest timetables.

MY WIFE'S CORNER The Kitsune, or Japanese red fox, is a well-respected character in traditional folklores, rumored to be exceedingly wise and proficient with various magical abilities. In real life though, habitat destruction has marginalized the Kitsune to beyond the outskirts of civilization. The sale of this "Mountain Meadows Edition" cellphone strap doesn't seem to be subject to any geographical restriction, as it is said to be sold in Hokkaido as well. We came across this at the little souvenir stand just outside the Kamikochi Bus Terminal.